3 piece gray silk and voided velvet dress. The skirt is very or
3 piece gray silk and voided velvet dress. The skirt is very ornate w/a center panel of gray voided velvet damask in a floral pattern. There are multiple chenille tendrils on the border between the decorative panel and the main body of the skirt. The underskirt has a box pleated ruffle 3” deep. The back of the skirt has a bustle arrangement w/a wide bow of the damask voided velvet and more chenille tendrils. The bow fastens to the back of the bodice at the small of the back. The interior of the skirt has its own bustle superstructure made of elastic and metal boning and is adjustable for width and circumference of the bustle. The bodice is gray silk w/the collar, front placket and cuff decoration of the voided velvet damask. Dress fastens down the front with 19 buttons and buttonholes, the very top button missing. The bodice is heavily boned with balene. There is a mantle made of the voided velvet damask w/chenille tendrils as fringe which rest over the shoulders and across the yoke of the bodice, but the dress can be worn w or without the mantle. The waist is 25” and the skirt is 36” at center front. Label: Johnston Broadway at 22nd Street, New York. DATE: Circa 1886.
A soft brown and black voided velvet and plain black velvet one
A soft brown and black voided velvet and plain black velvet one piece dress with a removable vest. Bodice is black velvet w/a cream net insert at the neckline, black velvet sleeves which end in a wide cuff of the voided black velvet, there is a 11-1/2” lace ruffle at the wrist, bodice has a stand up collar of voided velvet. The outer layer vest is boned and fastens at the center front w/hooks and eyes. The dress may have been remade in the 19-teens. Waist is 29” and 37” at the center front. Dress belonged to Taube Leah Goodman Ravel and said to have been the dress she wore when she came to the United States from Lithuania. She was the Grandmother of the provider of the content in this collection. DATE: Between 1896 and 1899.
Brown silk cape, quilted and trimmed w/ moire silk ribbon
Brown silk cape, quilted and trimmed w/ moire silk ribbon and 4 round covered button with loops to close, 2 loops missing. Outer fabric is a silk damask woven in bands; bands 2-1/2” wide, alternating large and small floral motifs. Lining is brown polished cotton. There are slits on both side to admit the arms, full cut would accommodate large sleeves, it is 31” at center front. Circa 1896.
China silk dress in the Rational or Aesthetic style
piece China silk dress in the Rational or Aesthetic style, popular in the late 18th and early 20th century. There is an inner panel which is boned made of fine cotton which would take the place of a corset. The main body of the dress is of taupe china silk which has been hand embroidered in a floral motif which is eastern in style. There is an over bodice of open work net which is decorated w/braided black balls at the bust and around the bottom. The same trim is repeated at the sleeves and edging for the cap sleeve which is made of the main fabric of the dress. The dress has no waist, the sleeves are fitted and made of pleated net. The pleated net is also repeated down the center front in a panel 5-1/2” long and at the yolk and collar. DATE: 1919.
Deep plum silk two piece dress, bodice
Deep plum silk two piece dress, bodice has fitted banana sleeves buttons at front, 10 button holes, crocheted covered buttons, top one missing. Skirt is in 3 layers, top layer is in a symmetrical drape in front and puff bustle in back. Middle layer is box pleated, underlayer has 3” tightly pleated ruffle; both pieces are lined in brow polished cotton. The waist is 25,” the skirt 41” at center front. Pinned to dress when purchased was the following note: Worn by Anna Plover at her wedding to Ezra Goebel in 1858, parents of late Katherine Goebel Foote of Earlville. DATE: The attached note says 1858, but appears that the 85 might have been inverted because style suggests later 1880s, more likely 1885.
Gray silk one piece dress decorated w/black embroidery
Gray silk one piece dress decorated w/black embroidery, black satin covered buttons gray lace, peach satin ribbon and peach glass buttons; bodice has an inset of open weave lace at the neck and forming the collar. High collar is boned. The same net forms the undersleeve from the elbow to the wrist. The oversleeve extends to the elbow and is trimmed in gray lace and peach satin ribbon. The bodice is a complicated arrangement of self fabric pleats, gray lace, peach buttons, ribbon etc. The skirt is much simpler and is in 2 pieces. The overskirt has black embroidered in an apron effect. 26” waist, 43” from the center front at the waist. Where the self fabric belt attaches there is a decoration which resembles a round medal with two ribbons hanging from it. Circa 1908
Green and black two piece dress, bodice
Green and black two piece dress, bodice may have been recut at the neckline and re-trimmed. Bodice is in two piece, under blouse is black silk which is pleated, under sleeves also pleated; over blouse is heavily ribbed, green and black striped silk in a bolero style with a short cap sleeve; cuffs are also the green and black material and are fitted, cuff and neckline trimmed ecru lace which may be a later addition; bodice fastens in back w/hooks and eyes, 9 crocheted faux buttons on left side at placket. The skirt is of the same green and black material fastened at left side w/hooks and eyes; there is a slight train. a black satin belt is attached at waist and is adored w/macramé knots. lower portion of skirt has two deep ruffles and a decorative band of black silk in a chevron pattern each extending flab adored w/5 real jet buttons. 28” waist and skirt is 41” at center front. Machine and hand stitching. DATE: Circa 1890
Neckwear – Collar with genuine jet black beads
Neckwear - Collar with genuine jet black beads. The high neck collar, tight at the throat, is called a jabot and is worn over a dress. Collar is made of lightweight black fabric and cut to fall in a triangular pattern along the bodice and shoulders. The bodice and shoulders are covered with small jet beads in a pattern resembling a Christmas tree. Attached along the edge of the bodice and shoulders are long cascading strands of the beads in varying lengths creating a V in the front and back. 13-1/2” from top of collar to bottom of V. Symmetrical. DATE: Mid to late 19th Century.
One piece cream silk dress fastens center back
One piece cream silk dress fastens center back w/hooks and eyes, heavily adored w/several types of lace trim and passementerie; there is high collar which is wired. The sleeves are fairly fitted and end in point and are adorned w/a deep lace ruffle and end w/4 button, cuffs fasten w/hooks and eyes. Bodice pleated at front; there is an attached overskirt which forms a cape effect over the hips and has a self fabric belt which attached at waist w/hooks and eyes; front of skirt has asymmetrical decoration of lace and ruching. Waist 24-1/2” dress is 37-1/2” from waist to hem at center front. Date: 1905.
One piece cream silk satin dress
One piece cream silk satin dress made of no fewer than 10 different kinds of lace, chiffon, net and silk in black, gray and white applied in a complicated manner. Dress has a v neck adorned w/rhinestones and faux opal beads; dress fastens at back side left and at center front two/hooks and eyes. Front has an attached brooch in a bow pattern w/rhinestones and faux pearls. J.D.M. Kenney, Boston label. DATE: Circa 1915
Two piece cream color net and crocheted cotton dress
Two piece cream color net and crocheted cotton dress. Of interest because the dress has been remade to be fashionable at a later more modern time. Original bodice had pouter pigeon silhouette at front, this causes the front of the bodice to be far longer than the back because the back was fitted across the shoulders and spine whereas the front was very full and intended to blouse over the bosom. When it was remade a piece of blue synthetic taffeta was added to the waist to equalize the length of the bodice. It may be that the original blouse had a high collar and has been removed and replaced w/a simple binding of the same blue synthetic fabric. The skirt is very fitted over the hip and would originally have been worn over a very tight corset that came all the way down to the hip. Entire dress would have been worn over a white chemise and petticoat because it is see through. The waist is 24” skirt 39-1/2” front center front, slightly longer in back. Circa 1905.
Two piece plum silk faille dress, dress is trimmed in burgundy
Two piece plum silk faille dress, dress is trimmed in burgundy velvet and burgundy silk satin ruching, bodice fastens at left front and is adorned w/2 stripes of velvet and 2 velvet bows; there is a yolk that is covered w/burgundy velvet is covered w/cream lace, high collar which has turn-down lapels at the back; lapels when down expose the burgundy velvet; sleeves are very fitted and end in a cuff adored w/ruching and lined in the burgundy velvet. Skirt is in 2 pieces, over skirt deeply scalloped and decorated w/burgundy satin ruching; it is lined in gray herringbone buckram under skirt is of brown polished cotton; lower 9” of underskirt is of bug velvet which attached w/ a row of ruching made of the plum silk faille. There is a belt which is pointed at the front, fastens with hooks and eyes, it is burgundy velvet lined in plum faille. Waist 24-1/2” skirt 38” at center front. Circa 1897.
White wool dress in 3 pieces
White wool dress in 3 pieces w/macramé sash belt. Bodice is not fitted, fastens at center w/hooks and eyes and has a yolk of lace overlay; neck has 1-1/2” lace ruffle forming collar. Sleeves are full at both shoulders and waist, the cuffs are adored w/macramé brain and 4 crocheted buttons, hooks and eyes close the cuff. Underskirt is of cream linen and wool, bottom edge adored w/feather stitched embroidered and satin stitch stitched embroidered in a leaf motif overskirt of same white wool as bodice and is in 2 pieces, the top piece forms a cape over the hip and ends 10” from the hem. Center front adorned w/10 crocheted buttons, hook and eye closure at left hip. Waist 34” and skirt is 36” at center front. There is a small pocket in the center of the bodice which would be hidden by the waistband of the skirt when worn. There is a 91” sash of macramé braid. DATE: Uncertain, may have been a costume.